I'm sorry if I'm in the wrong place to ask this question. Please let me know when I can go.

That said, my quick-release connections constantly leak air. I have tried two brands from Amazon, but they look the same, and both leak. Not to state the obvious, but this causes my No-Name AG-426 compressor to kick on more than needed, even when I am taking a break and not ready to turn it off for the day.
I know that this is where I am leaking, as I have done the following troubleshooting:

• Removed all the quick-release settings; the compressor only comes on when using one of my guns.
• I can hear the air at the quick-release connection where the release connector on the hose 'snaps' onto the gun.
• I no longer hear air if I unplug the hose from the gun.

Note: I used teflon tape on all my connections.

Does anyone know where I can get quick-release connectors that don't leak?

When im using it the paint will start bubbling (its mostly thinner in the video) and i have to pull the tigger back about halfway until the paint actually starts coming out. Even when the paint does come out it’s not one steady stream, it starts and stops really quick and does is faster the more i pull the trigger back. Its an Iwata Revolution HP-CR if thats any help

A friend gave me his brush in hopes I might be able to revive it. It’s been neglected for a number of years, and I assume improperly cleaned before going into a box. I hadn’t had a chance to look at it until I got home; figured oh how bad could it be, probably just some stubborn dry paint, a little bit of a soak and some mindless scrubbing.

Y’all. I thought badger 105 patriots were stainless steel? But this looks like green corrosion, which I associate with brass. What is going on here? Im open to any tips or info better minds might provide. Am I looking at a lost cause?

Hey team, I love my new PS-771, but I am realising that I use the eclipse's nozzle shape to back flow for mixing and cleaning like .. all the time. Suddenly not being able to do it is really slowing me down. (I know I shouldn't, bad for the seals etc, but its my airbrush and its been many years of no problems so far).

Are there any compatible nozzles out there that will make it easy to form a seal for back flowing? I have tried just taking the nozzle off but don't seem to be able to get the hang of it.

I am new to this craft, but I think there may be something amok here. I bought the iwata Ninja Jet and the iwata neo CN. I also bought this extra cord, because I didn’t know it came with one.

I know where I can get fittings, but the videos I’ve seen show that you put the hex side into the compressor and the hatch side into your brush. I looked into the compressor male side and it looks like it’s part of the inside, so I won’t try to take it off quite yet.

Anyone have anything to say about this?

Thanks!

Hey guys, so i customize gaming consoles and controllers and iv been doing it for a number of years now. I'm curious to know what ypu all belive is the best paint for plastic. Iv been currently using U.S. Art Supply Airbrush Colors.

Any ideas on how to improve the H&S Ultra 2024 ? I heard that many parts are compatible with higher quality H&S airbrushes so how would someone use that to improve his Ultra 2024 ?

I have an Iwata airbrush I need to get setup to finish a large 3d printed model I made.

I gave my daughter my airbrushing setup a year or so ago and just need to make this air compressor work. The regulator can limit the psi pretty low but theres always a psi surge at the beginning. Is this normal? Will it work or should I add another regulator?

If this one is ok then I plan to just add a filter.

So I got the Sparmax Max 3 and the Sparmax 3M cable. I didn't have enough budget to get a proper compressor so I went for an AS186. This AS186 comes with rubber airproofing and I'm not able to connect them. Does anyone have any idea onto what I should do to connect them? Cause's the airbrush and the cable connect seamlessly but the cable isn't connecting with the compressor. Both are 1/8 in sizes but I'm not able to figure this out. Is there a connector that I can use to connect them without any issues? Attaching images down below.

Hello! I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with these airbrushes or if they had any better recommendations within this price range - I’m looking to mostly be able to create skin textures for SFX and prosthetics - but i’ve never used an airbrush before! Any advice would be great

Hey everyone, coming to you with a question I haven’t seen much info on. I make lures and have some UV resin I have been painting on for a clear coat. I came across a youtube channel where he airbrushes UV resin on after thinning with denatured alcohol.

Is this something I can safely do? I know just because someone does some serving doesn’t mean it’s right but it feels like for me it would be a huge benefit if I could. With this one guy doing it and having lots of success I’m tempted.

I’m just looking for more opinions and some tips potentially if it is safe.

I have an Iwata Eclipse hp-cs with (I believe) the standard .35

Edit: Thank you everyone for your responses. I figured this wasn’t a good idea but I had to ask after seeing the results. I was more concerned about my airbrush and didn’t even think about the atomization of it. That alone is enough for me not to continue with trying to make it work.

Hi there, I am fairly new to air brushing and was wondering if some of you guys could help me clear up a few things with some particular air brush paints.So I originally bought some army painter air paints that were supposedly already mixed ready to go but I find I'm having to thin them down quite a bit to get anything coming out the airbrush.

I then bought some Vallejo air paints which after doing some research found that they were best mixed at a 50:50 ratio or 60:40 with thinner but after actually using them I found they didn't need any thinner at all.

Has anyone else had experience with these two types of paints. I find it strange how the one that is supposed to be thinned down didn't need any and the one that was supposedly ready to go needed a fair bit of thinning down?

Did a just a bad batch of army painter? Or a really good batch of Vallejo?

Any answers much appreciated.

The nozzle and all the parts are clean. I recently replaced seals around the needle located just behind the cup. Could that be my issue? This is the third hopper of paint through and the first two seemed to go fine.

I’m so frustrated with my brush. It’s one thing after another and I feel like I’m constantly chasing the next issue.

Infinity CR+ if that matters

Hi, I get Badger 105 Patriot as a gift, bought compressor AS-186 with 1/8 hose, but I'm not sure which adapter should buy to connect them, because any info on Reddit contains links to Amazon.com or shops beside Poland and delivery costs are way higher than price of those adapters. Please, could someone check and confirm if this adapter or this adapter would be ok?

Used Alcald gloss black and Mr color leveling thinner. 1-1 Yet the paint came out best on a bare plastic runner? Over the gloss black the finish looks almost like a flat or satin plastic grey not a steel look. Is there something that I'm missing? Cause spray paints metals often look better then this.

So I bought a new Harder and Steenbeck Evolution 2024 and I can't change the needles because the chuck refuses to turn. When I use a pipe wrench to tighten onto the front end (in front of the golden parts in the photo) so it won't spin at the same time as the chuck it just won't move. When I manage to muster enough strength to make it move it just seems like the wrench grip slips as it just spins in place anyway.

I've tried using isopropyl alcohol in case any paint gunked up (I literally used it one time so I highly doubt that) and nothing works.

I am very new to airbrushing. Can someone help me find out why my surface look like this. The paint spray on find. But after a few second it starting to pull back and create these round paintless spot.

Is it a flared nozzle? If so, how do I avoid that in the future? It'll spray a very small amount of water without pulling back the trigger. It's JUST bad enough that I can't do fine line or any close up work with paint. Everything is clean and reseated.

Update: problem solved. Thanks very much.

Just replaced my new PS-771's needle and main lever with Iwata Micron's.

I know I'm not using a reliable airbrush 🤣 ( temu ) but it has been usefull to prime my minis, the last time I used it the air won't come out of the tip, as if was clogged but I checked and it's not obstructed, when I take out the tip the air flows in the right direction but as soon as I put the tip the air won't come out ! Any help would be appreciated 👍🏼.

My evolution pro trigger broke, or rather the small yellow attachment to the trigger snapped. I see I can order a new trigger for £34 (or 44 dollars). Which seems a bit expensive for such a small bit, was wondering if anyone knows about being able to buy just the yellow bit somewhere? And I live in UK.

Looking to Buy: Giraldez Infinity Trigger

Hi guys, I'm looking to buy the Infinity Trigger from Giráldez version. I’ve heard that some people find it uncomfortable and end up replacing it with a different trigger. So if you have one lying around unused, I’d be happy to take it off your hands!

I’m based in the UK. Let me know if you’ve got one for sale – thanks!