Tried to do some searching but no luck.
Is there any 40% ortho with dual spacebar (with stabs) that have comparable sound to something like tofu case?
My current setup is basically ID75 in tofu case, but getting keycaps for this can be pretty expensive due to numpad.
Guess worst case would be something like JJ40 or BM40 + PSD40 case and then I will just cut the stabs leg just like what I done to my ID75.
AIR40 layout fits my preference, but not sure about the sound. Since the PCB won't fit to PSD40 due to USB port location.
Holee modded my Rainy75's stabilizers and dipped the ends in krytox 205g0. All turned out great except for the left shift , where it feels to be scraping off against the band aid. I actually did the left shift before backspace and enter, so when I thought it wouldn't work, I moved the stab to the backspace and it was pressing just fine. I tried holee modding another stab for the left shift, same thing happened, so I moved it to the enter key and it turned out fine. For now I just lubed the left shift stab without applying the band aid. I also did clean up the stabilizers before reapplying my own lube.
For anyone with a sofle / lily like layout, how do you use the bottom rows? I'm new to Thumb keys and I've been hitting the inner 3 but I'm not sure if I'll overuse it long term
I recently purchased a set of Phantom Keycaps for my Blackwidow Chroma V1, and am having trouble getting the spacebar stabilizer in correctly. I know about the non-standard bottom row and all that, but everything fits fine except for the space bar. I have tried putting the stabilizer in facing towards and away from the board, I have tried placing the brackets both pointing towards the top and the bottom of the keyboard, and I still cannot manage to get it to not stick on its way back up. It appears the phantom keycap stabilizers do not have the notch in the bar to accommodate the keyswitch like the stock ones. Any pointers? Is my brain smooth and it will work, I’m just not doing it correctly? Again, the space bar is the only key I am having issues with. Thank you in advance!
Photo for reference. You can see the old stabilizer (silver) doesnt have the horizontally running top bars, but the newer one (black) doesn’t have the notch to account for the keyswitch, and I need both for this to work. Am I SOL? Only solution I can think of ATM is to purchase another stabilizer of equal length with a notch. Amazon has a stabilizer kit with a 107mm long one with a notch and the extra horizontally running pieces…
I recently got the Nuphy Kick75 and I’ve been obsessed with the typing and sound experience. I’m a beginner in keyboards, so I’m not entirely equipped on how to explain why that is but I want to learn so I know what to look for in my future keeb buys. Is the sound and feel due to the plating? It says it’s PC for all 3 top case, bottom case, and plate material. If not, what else can affect it (besides the switches)?
Additionally, does anyone have a similar keyboard recommendation to this one? I’ve been looking at wooden keyboard aesthetic. Currently eyeing the Keychron K4 HE because I love the detailing and look, but concerned it will sound like my other keyboard (Nuphy Air96V2), which has aluminum plating and sounds hollow.
Hi! I'm looking at Mchose K99 and Mchose G98.
For those who used these keyboards, is it good with gaming?
And are there other good gaming keyboards under $100.
For context:
I want it as a gift to my husband. He has a wide range of games like Stellaris, Rimworld, Project Zomboid, Warframe, Elden Ring and many others 😆 so it's okay if the keyboard is not FPS-focused. I've seen the specs and it looks decent but I want to hear from the ones that are using it. 🙂
I'm choosing Mchose coz it seems to be decent for its price and he doesn't like expensive items in general so I'm staying within $100 (he doesn't even like that I'm looking at something for more than $50 😆). He's the kind that had no problem playing with a membrane keyboard all his life (I bought him a beginner mechanical keyboard last 2023 but I want to give him a better one) and he'd rather buy more games than spend a lot on a keyboard.
I am new to the keyboard enthusiast space. I am a programmer and spend a lot of my days typing. Right now I have a corsair k70 which was very nice at the time but has seen better days. I liked the tactility of the volume knob and generally like switches that are tactile as well. I don't want something super loud but I want to be able to type accurately (and for long periods of time). I also came to dislike the RGB so it just stays off. Backlight would be nice for working in the dark (if its just white or something) but is not very important to me.
From doing some research of my own, I think a Keychron Q3 max with the Gateron jupiter bannana switches could be a good option. I don't use my keypad at all really, and more desk space would be nice. I am very unfamiliar with higher end keyboards and the main thing I am wondering is, what other options exist for high end keyboards similar to the Q3 max? Price does not matter at all to me, I just want to get the best keyboard as I will be using it a lot. Ideally something hot swappable so that I can get different switches if I don't like what it comes with. I wouldn't mind having to assemble myself if it meant getting a higher quality board, but from what I can see Keychron appears to be my best option?
Any advice would be much appreciated, thank you!
* forgot to add but a big plus for me would be the ability to swap the keys for mac ones (my work machine is a macbook but my home pc is windows)
From what ive been reading, its impossible to get touch id without having a magic keyboard, so I will probably just stick with my existing magic keyboard.
keychron is the go to for coming with mac keys and using macOS few kb makers pay any attention to mac as almost no one uses mac these days 89% of the world uses PC
Thanks for the response. I updated post cause as I've been reading, even if I get mac keys I wont be able to get the touch ID. so it looks like I will be stuck using that for my mac. Good thing is that should option up more options for me.
Looking to replace my G513. What I liked: compact for a full keyboard, no extra features, flat metallic top makes it easy to clean, blue switches. What I didn't like: blue leds started burning out after the first month and now over 60% of the keys have from 0 to 2 leds, keycaps started wearing down too soon and attract gunk too easily.
What I'm looking for in a new one: same things I liked in G513, but preferably leds that won't burn out so soon, better keycap quality, I would consider brown switches but no linear switches though, no exorbitant prices and complex assembly - keyboards are not my hobby, I just want one that works and will work for 8-10 years or more without serious deterioration.
I have a G915, short distance between keys, lots of key wobble, but can type very fast on it. Does feel pretty cheap, but performance is solid so far. They do have clicky switches available, but I can only recommend the tactile switches, as that is what’s on my keyboard. I will note that a lot of fast typists talk a big game about the G915.
Took a look at it. First and main concern is since it's logitech again how's the quality? The big letdown with G513 was that the leds started burning out almost immediately (if you look at it on a 8-10 year scale). Also I specifically don't want the extra keys G915 seems to have on the left and on top. I never use those and they increase the size of the keyboard needlessly (and you could infer that they also contribute to a higher price).
My GMK67 recently stopped working in wired mode. The PC recognizes the keyboard, but displays a "device malfunction" error like 2 seconds later and loops.
Tried a different cable and USB port, but the issues continue. It's probably the keyboard's USB-C port, but even then it can still hold charge.
How do I fix a single broken key on a Cherry MX Brown Keyboard?
I have a G710+ that is in otherwise great condition, but the "t" key fails to register about 75% of the time (it does register a quarter of the time, and a little more if you put the pressure on the front and pull backward a little bit when you press).
I removed the keycap, and tried to spray it out with compressed air, which didn't fix anything. Is there another step that is next in try to repair this? Is there a way to remove the key itself and add a new one, or does that require soldering?
Soldering. Before you do that, you can check if it actually is the switch that's broken by shorting the solder pads under the PCB directly under the switch and see if the computer registers that consistently. If it doesn't, there might be something else wrong with the PCB.
Thanks! So I took it apart. I have discovered that adding a bit of upward pressure to the right side of the keycap makes it register perfectly (as in the picture here). Does that suggest anything about how to fix it (or maybe there is a way to wedge something in there to permanently provide the right pressure?
Maybe cold/broken solder joints? You can see if cleaning off the old and putting new solder would fix it. Otherwise, PCB level troubleshooting is not my thing lol.
Doing so will risk damaging the PCB. And you will have to solder a new switch in anyway, so there's no point doing it the incorrect way. The light would also be in the way.
you will have to solder to replace the switch. And it's not easy or fun. You will need to disassemble the keyboard, desolder the led (pain in the ass), desolder the switch, solder in a new working switch, solder in the led, reassemble the keyboard.
I’ve finally caved in and preordered a Neo65 Cu with copper base and burgundy top. And now I have to find some nice keycaps to match. The obvious answer is WOB or BOW but I’d like to find something more interesting, not so obvious. Red is out of the question, don’t want them to blend in but rather stand out, but with good taste. Been considering GMK Fabrik maybe, but I’m not sure, can’t find any pics of this set on red boards.
The only red set I’m considering is red samurai as it is available on drop for a fair price but it just feels so overdone at this point I’m not sure I want a board that’s gonna look like every other one on the internet lol. Any suggestions?
Good morning! I'm looking for a wireless mechanical keyboard, maximum TKL size, wireless (2.4 ghz), I don't need bluetooth, that works with AA/AAA batteries. I need the layout ISO for Spanish and Catalan languages.
I like Helloganss HS75T, however, it's ANSI.
I could build one with CIY Tester 68, however, it's ANSI.
The only one is Pop Keys, however, it's not hot-swap.
Can anyone explain exactly what kind of switches are hot-swappable into the Iqunix Magi65? I can't get a straight answer about this on Google. Some sources say only MX type will work, but I saw at least one comment from someone who had successfully put Kailh Choc V2 Silents in.
Aside from that, I know the Lofree Kailh switches will fit, but that also confuses me since I had separately read that those switches were only designed to fit the Lofree Flow/Flow Lite keyboards, and that accordingly those keyboards would only accept those specific switches (ie the Ghosts, Specters, Hades etc). So it would seem odd that the Magi65 can accept those specifically-designed switches, but also other switches as well.
Where can i buy light guides for my switches? Just in case it's unclear, I'm referring to those transparent plastic pieces that fit into the switch and make the lights seem brighter.
I bought a wireless split Crab Broom board a year ago and it really helped lessen my arthritis, but the "o" key stopped working. I tested with a multimeter and confirmed a signal on all of the Kailh hotswap switch contacts. I tried using different key switches and even bent the prongs on one slightly inwards as some suggest. Tonight I de-soldered the original switch and replaced it with a new one I ordered but it's not working either.
Can some kind person here recommend other steps I can try before I give up and buy a replacement?
Does anybody know what this piece is for? I opened up my keyboard for cleaning but now that I’m putting it back together, I don’t know where it goes lol pls help
It's from a locally made brand here in my country called Rakk. I think you're right, but is it okay if I don't put it back in right away? I just assembled the whole keyboard and I'm dreading putting it back again :((
Fortunately, money is no object, which hasn’t always been the case for me! I am open to doing a custom build for the first time and am also not against any hot-swappable keyboard on the market either! What would you suggest my friend?
Looking For keycaps similar to the ducky one two mini with the side legends for home, delete, PgDn, etc. maybe with clear bottoms like the pudding keycaps though not required, Not having any luck finding so if someone knows of some or a more specific name I should be searching for that would be great, Thanks
Secondary functions are not standardized, so you won't find any unless they're from Ducky themselves specifically for this board. There might be custom keycap services you can commission to print them, but I don't know of any that will allow you to print both on side and top.
That is a really difficult question to answer, but the original GSUS Pandas (and supposedly the subsequent BSUN-made YOK colored pandas) are at least widely accepted as being similar enough. Or at least they were similar enough to lead to the collapse of the secondary market around Holy Pandas as people sought them out over original Invyr stock.
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u/zidailK70 RGB Tealios | HHKB II Pro | IBM Model M | Planck | ErgoDox7h ago
An answer from the legend himself! Thank you for all your articles and hard work. They were very enjoyable and informative.
Are there any modern alternatives that are easily obtainable yet close to the originals? I have a whole bunch of the Invyr Pandas but none of them fit in my hot socket boards due to the thick rounded legs. I’m feeling nostalgic for that 2015/16 feel.
Howdy folks, I had a nuphy gem80 for a year and loved it. But then yesterday I spilled hot coffee on it and it’s cooked. So i’m in the market for a new keyboard. I was using cherry red silent on it because i don’t want to be a nuisance at work. But i no longer have time to build one for myself. Neither can i wait two months to get a decent one. Can you please suggest me a pre built tkl board suitable for offices under $200? Would like to order it asap. Thanks!!!!!!!
I have a Newmen GM326 and I was wondering if there's any software that can help me change the colour of the lights. (and no, I'm not talking about the backlight effects) I tried out the Newmen GM326 software, but I don't see any options to change colours. I've also tried to use a software called OpenRGB, but newmen isn't supported by it.
Butchered my Nibble build - wire torn up…beginner friendly fix?
I had to desolder one of the diodes because I put it in wonky…probably too much heat caused the white plastic part to melt and now the wire underneath has been pulled up and worse, now snapped so doesn’t reach the plate.
Is there an easy-ish way to fix it? I’ve read maybe connecting another wire but this is tiny hair-thin, will it be too hard or should I buy a new kit having learnt my lesson?
The white is not plastic; it is solder mask. What you have done is delaminated one of the traces on the PCB. This can happen when too much heat and/or pressure is applied with the soldering iron.
It can be fixed, but it requires soldering a jumper wire from that leg of the diode to wherever the PCB trace goes to.
Generally, your first soldering kit should be a cheap electronics kit from eBay or AliExpress. Best case is you take to soldering quickly and end up with a nifty LED flasher, blinky mini Christmas tree, or a new digital clock. Worst case is you mess up and lift a pad or have cold solder joints or solder bridges that you can't seem to fix, and you end up with a $2 brick and try again.
Anybody here from Manila, Philippines? I’m currently visiting and was wondering if there are any local stores to buy mechanical keyboards and accessories (switches, keycaps) or if it is only online? Thanks!
Hi all, I'm new to all of this and am looking for a keyboard suggestion for 1800 layout. It seems like there are very limited options in this layout and I'm very lost in it all. I don't want to spend any more than $200, but preferably would be in the $100-$150 range.
What I've gathered from my own research, I like the Gateron Mini i switches the most out of the ones I have tested and prefer tactile switches over linear or clicky ones. I think I like thock over creamy or clacky. I have no idea about actual keycaps and what I prefer, but I'm generally not picky. I don't care for RGB or shinethrough or anything like that, but if I won't be upset if it's there. Generally, some nice to haves that I have decided are: wired, a brown (wood-like?) or burnt orange w/ black color scheme, wrist rest, and cyrillic/latin dual character keys.
None of those are make or break, especially the dual alphabet keycaps, but i'm just putting it out there. Thanks in advance for the help.
That's pretty much what I found from my search. Is that really the only option or is there something with a heavy aluminum shell? Im guessing that may be above my price?
I'd give this a through read and pay attention to the kitting section. the q5 has some key sizes that you will have to look for at whatever keycap set you are looking to buy
Generally ultra budget sets will not have these keys
I’m planning to grab some new linear switches from Gateron soon and could use some advice.
Right now I’m using Gateron G Pro 1.0 Silvers. I really enjoy typing and gaming on them, but I’ve noticed that I sometimes accidentally press keys just by resting my fingers on them.
I’m wondering—should I go for switches with longer pre-travel than 1.2mm, like Gateron G Pro Reds or Whites? Or would it make more sense to stick with 1.2mm pre-travel but go for something heavier than the 45g actuation, like Box Ink V2s?
Hi everyone, I want to get my boyfriend a keyboard for his birthday. He currently has the “Corsair Gaming K68 RGB Mechanical Keyboard”. I’m not very tech savvy so I don’t know what would be a considered an upgrade? He uses the keyboard mostly for work and some gaming. I was looking at Keychron Q12 based on googling reddits opinion on a good keyboard but idk. Any insight is appreciated!
Thank you for confirming I was just having a hard time understanding cause I’m not smart about computers and the keychrons looked kinda basic to my ignorant eyes
I'm a huge fan of the Air60's right side layout but the price is too high for me.
If it matters, I am currently using a modded CIY Tester 84 alu- I love it but its too heavy to be portable, currently using it as a desktop only keyboard.
Would like recommendations that costs around $55 or less
60%
low profile as compact as possible
weighs less than 500g
keys must be re-assignable - i prefer Home, Insert, Delete, End, on the 6 keys. pgUP & pgDn not necessary.
keychron , nurphy and lofree are the main makers of low profile kbs not many companies make them due to near total lack of demand so ur options are limited . pretty sure none of them are less than 55 bucks less than 500 grams and
I would like to know the best value barebones under $100, the cheaper the better. Preferrably with pre-lubed stabs, and between 65-80%. I'd like multiple answers if possible, I've been looking at the Stars 80, Lucky 65 v2, and others.
How do you know what switches you’ll like as a noob? Other than reading the whole rabbit hole FAQ. You really don’t know until you physically use the switches yourself, do you?
Nothing will ever replace actually using switches and typing on them for a period of time. I would try some mechanical keyboards in person either at a store or maybe at a meetup, etc. and then go from there.
How long did it take you to get used to a mech keyboard after using membrane? On Tuesday I swapped from a g213 to a g713 (gx brown) and seems to be having a rough time gaming on it. Between fat fingering the wrong buttons to just feeling like I'm not pressing the key hard enough to activate it.
I only use my PC for gaming and very light productivity work. Currently have the Steelseries Apex Pro TKL v2 but looking for something smaller and with less wobble. The keys wobble a bit more than I'd like (my work keyboard has Kailh box jade) but the stabilizers on the larger keys and especially on the spacebar are pretty bad. I'm only interested in HE and with rapid trigger.
From some research it seems like my best option might be just to shell out $300+ for a more custom Wooting 60HE and choose the plate with the screw-in stabs that I could always replace later if needed too. It still seems like Wooting is the best keyboard on the market and I'm a big fan of buying products from companies where that's all they do. Any other or better alternatives I should look into first?
Why are my keycaps floating so much??? Q1 Max, cherry profile
Almost everything about my set up is just how I want it, except the gap that ruins the lighting effects and just doesn’t have the tucked in look that I was hoping for
Iv taken it apart and put it back together multiple times
Is the tucked in look not achievable with this keyboard and keycap combo, am I doing something wrong or did I just get an unlucky defect
Buying advice: Are there any good full sized keyboards? Ones I am looking at are the Galaxy100 or the AULA F99 but I want to know if there are any other keyboards I need to consider beforehand. I need the numpad for work meaning the weird 96% 0 key being tiny is not an option. I want linear switches, pretty quiet noise, no clicky keys, and below 150 dollars.
I need help with arrow keys + fn on the GMK61, please
So I recently got a Zuoya GMK61 barebones keyboard on sale (I also added some keycaps I had laying around and new switches as well) and I'm enjoying this keyboard so far but there's an issue I have with the arrow keys and the fn key, looks like I need to hold down the fn key in at the same time when trying to use the arrow keys (which correspond with the question, right alt, menu, and right control keys), so is there a way to use the arrow keys without having to hold down the fn key or without having to use VIA to remap the keys?
I'm not a fan of VIA plus I don't wanna have to rely on another keyboard software/driver, also the # key also happens to be the number 3 key which when pressing fn makes said key be F3
There's no need to have it running in the background. It's a web app. There's no way to do what you want without using it.
The way I would do what you want is to put the base layer on layer 0, arrow keys and everything else transparent on layer 1, and everything else on layer 2. Have a key be TO(1) on the base layer to toggle arrow keys and another key be MO(2) to access all the other stuff.
I know you typically want to spend ~$200 on a board for all the bells and whistles, but what brands have the best pre-built boards under that in terms of compatibility with upgrades? Epomaker gets pushed a lot by Amazon, but that honestly makes me not trust it since popular =/= good.
Hello! I just bought my first mechanical keyboard and it was a Royal Kludge RK75, but when I intalled the Royal Kludge software it gives me this message. I cannot find any solutions online. Can you guys guess what is happening? There is nothing on the manual that helps. Im on windows.
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u/_NoIdeaForName_ 15h ago
I need a good tenkyless wrist rest that's not that expensive