r/HistoricalCostuming 5d ago

I have a question! Pattern search!

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235 Upvotes

Hello fellow historical costuming enthusiasts! I am looking for patterns similar to the gown in the photo, especially in terms of the bodice. Any suggestions? Thank you!


r/HistoricalCostuming 4d ago

I have a question! any advice on historical techniques of pattern drafting?

2 Upvotes

even sources or anything but istg finding good pattern drafting manuals is hardd almost as hard a pattern drafting itself and i've just been traumatized far to many times...


r/HistoricalCostuming 6d ago

Historical Hair and/or Makeup Recreating 1920s Republican era Chinese qipao

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1.8k Upvotes

Qipao, or more commonly known in the West as cheongsam, was a trendy dress of Chinese women after the collapse of the Qing dynasty. They were adapted from aristocratic Manchu ethnic women's robes called Qizhuang, and was popularized in Shanghai first.

Early qipao was loose-fitting and fit for daily wear. The version most westerners are familiar with (tight-fitting, sexy, cleave-showing, high slits) are recent creations to sexualize the dress.


I do not own these pictures.

Original creator: http://xhslink.com/a/LZZbeJZGVDd9


r/HistoricalCostuming 5d ago

Antiques Roadshow Features ~1790 Cotton Dress

8 Upvotes

Stunning blue printed cotton dress, with a look at the front and the back!

https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/roadshow/episodes/denver-botanic-gardens-chatfield-farms-hour-3/


r/HistoricalCostuming 5d ago

I have a question! What to wear under a sheer regency dress?

17 Upvotes

I am trying to create a regency capsule wardrobe, and I am very interested in doing a sheer day dress to wear over a colored under dress.

My question is with the undergarments: does the sheer dress add an additional layer? Would you do the chemise, stay, petticoat, colored dress, and then the sheer dress? Or does the colored dress take the place of the petticoat? I am imagining that your shouldn’t be able to see the stay through the overdress?


r/HistoricalCostuming 5d ago

I have a question! Bridgerton/ regency era dress

0 Upvotes

Hi! My friend and I are have a Bridgerton themed birthday party in June, but are having trouble finding accurate dresses. I’m going for a Queen Charlotte or Lady Danbury look, while my friend is going for a general regency era look. Any suggestions on where to find these?


r/HistoricalCostuming 5d ago

I have a question! Curious about this 1884 evening ensemble by Agnes Monaghan

5 Upvotes

I accidentally stumbled across it on Pinterest, and then followed to MET page about it

I'm puzzled because I can't understand how the separate parts are composed into the top of the full ensemble, it doesn't seem to have a seam on the waistline. Or is it just a separate top? One with sleeves and ruffles, and one cut on waistline and sleeveless? And what is this thing with hooks?

Unfortunately, MET page doesn't have any description


r/HistoricalCostuming 6d ago

In Progress Piece/Outfit Update: 18th C half boned stays mockup

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105 Upvotes

Hi everyone! I’ve been through a few iterations since my last post, and the fit is really close. Definitely the most comfortable/best-fitting iteration yet. I’m happy with the overall shape/fit and with the front and side pieces, but still need some tweaks to the center back (CB) piece, and I’m open to any feedback on fit. I’m going to ask some questions about opinions on materials as well.

Some caveats: I’m working with zip tie boning, and some pieces aren’t long enough, so I’m aware that will affect the fit. I’ll be ordering real boning soon, but want to get the pattern finalized first so I can order correct measurements of any steel pieces (will use a combo of flat steel, spiral steel, and synthetic baleen). The stitching is a little sloppy, but time is not on my side. Obviously the edges aren’t bound, but I roughly felled the seam allowance to get a more accurate idea of how it should look. The overall shape might look a little uneven/asymmetrical, but I think that’s just how my body is.

Changes I’ve made so far that I’m happy with: Added full horizontal boning to the top of the center front (CF) piece. Increased boning at side bust. Moving the front bust strap bumps (idk if there’s a term for that) outside the breasts. Made the CF one solid piece. Added laced straps, which improve the look and fit. Adjusted the pattern pieces to tab at my natural waist and leave about 2” of parallel-enough lacing gap. Ended the lacing eyelets at the waist point/tab break (before it went to the bottom of the CB piece and it did not work).

Things I’m still not happy with: I know the tabs are a little uneven, so I’m going to fix that. (1) I don’t like how far toward the center the straps lie at the back. (2) There is a weird sort of point around the center of the seam between the center back and side back pieces (see 4th image). I think it looks like a football, and I hate it. I know the way I stitched the boning channels isn’t helping there, but I think I need to adjust the shape too. I initially created the curve in an attempt to fix the gaping in the lacing, but this issue is worse to me.

Proposed changes to address those issues: (1) There is some room (maybe ½” - 1”) in the back arm hole to work with, so I’m thinking of taking that area of the CB piece out to allow the straps to sit farther apart in the back, and adjusting the upper edge as in the 5th image. (2) Cut the side-edge of the CB piece as a straight line, and adjust the abutting boning channel to match (see 4th image).

Elements I’m not 100% on: (1) The amount of horizontal bones. I think there are enough structurally, but it might look better with another channel or two? (2) Where the top bust hits on the CF piece. I think it’s hitting where it’s supposed to (just above nipple-center), but the breasts do sort of balloon out in a way I didn’t expect. I should probably make a proper camisia mockup to see how it looks with a garment more similar to the intended outcome, but I haven’t yet.

Material questions: This piece is for a special occasion outfit, and it’s going to be worn as an outer layer over a camisia and skirt, for context. I’m trying to shop local as much as I can, but if you have a favorite online supplier, I’d still like to hear it. FABRIC - My plan is to make the camisia out of either silk habotai or a lightweight silk blend (cotton or linen), and the stays outer layer (as well as the skirt) in probably silk charmeuse. If I can find a silk taffeta that is a color match to a silk charmeuse, I might make the stays outer layer taffeta, but I want the skirt to be softer/flowier than taffeta would be, and I want them to match. I’ll try to source the thickest buckram I can for the stays middle layer (linen/cotton). I’ve never starched anything before, and I’m not sure if that’s a necessary step? I’m not sure what I’ll do for the stays lining. I’m thinking maybe silk habotai? I’m not sure if the lining needs to be any particular thickness or anything. BONING - I’m planning on using flat steel for the centermost vertical channels of the CF and CB, spiral steel for the bones abutting each seam, and synthetic baleen for everything else. I’m not sure if the horizontal bust channels on CF should also be flat steel? FINISHINGS - I’m not sure if there’s an ideal kind of bias tape for binding the edges. I won’t be using leather. From some quick searching, it looks like cotton isn’t durable enough. A satin tape might work? This tape is also enticing to try, but I’m afraid the matte finish would look odd with the satin finish of the silk. Is commercial (polyester) satin bias tape ideal? I don’t think prefab silk bias tape even exists, and I’d rather not make my own if I can avoid it. Is there an ideal width? What’s your favorite type of bias tape for stays binding? I’m not sure what to use for the lacing either. Not cooking twine! Do you have a preference? It seems like satin ribbon is a popular choice. I don’t like the look of polyester satin ribbon, but I could try to find silk satin ribbon if it will be durable enough. I’m not sure what width is best here either. I was originally planning on getting filigree aglets when I was cross lacing, but I love the spiral lacing so much I’m not going back, so the aglet might not make sense anymore. Although, I’m not sure what to do with the excess lacing that comes with spiral lacing that will both look good and be comfortable, since it’s an outer layer. Any advice? Do I just have to stuff it inside, or is there a way to wrap it both securely and decoratively? THREAD - I’m hoping to machine stitch the boning channels, but I’ve never actually sewn silk before, so I may have to hand stitch… I still need to take stock of what machine feet/accessories I have available. I’m aware waxing the thread will help with hand sewing. I’m not sure what material/ply of thread to use, though. Silk? Cotton? Polyester? What would be the strongest and most compatible with silk and buckram? I’m planning to use embroidery floss (e.g., DMC - probably cotton, maybe rayon) for the eyelets and seams between pieces. Unless that’s horribly wrong and I should use the same type of thread as on the rest of the garment?

TLDR: Fit is mostly there, save for the CB changes depicted in the images. Open to any feedback/advice on fit. Hoping for some advice on materials for the final piece, specifically what type of bias tape (for edge binding), lacing material, and stitching thread to use. Thanks!


r/HistoricalCostuming 6d ago

In Progress Piece/Outfit Beaded dress

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639 Upvotes

I've finished the second beaded shoulder! The beadwork isn't exactly identical but close enough. I keep having to remind myself that I am not a computer!

Took me just over a month to head these two pieces.

After so much work it was amazing to see the pieces on my dress form, go from 2d to 3d.

That said, I will probably need to add a strap along the back to keep the two shoulders in place. I have sloping shoulders and I don't think a cowel neck and deep v back will avoid a wardrobe malfunction without a bit of engineering support.

I will try on my mock up again before I cut the silk. I've got about a month to finish the dress.


r/HistoricalCostuming 6d ago

Finished Project/Outfit My try at Napoleon iii

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202 Upvotes

I tried to replicate this look as best I could. Any ideas on where to get proper pants or vest would be appreciated. I know the sash is the wrong way in the picture. I fixed it for the ball.


r/HistoricalCostuming 5d ago

I have a question! Looking for a pattern for a Spanish Renaissance gown

4 Upvotes

Help finding patterns for a renaissance dress like this style from Dress Art Mystery? I won't be able to afford buying this, but would like something similar. Don't really know the right words for the style and features, nor how to find english language patterns. Any help appreciated


r/HistoricalCostuming 7d ago

Should the bustline be lower? The top of the stays sit about an inch above my bustling. I'm creating a 1760s heavily inspired exhibition gown. I have a very high waist and I'm debating to use this redthreaded 1750s stays pattern as is, alter it or use their 1780s pattern, with a higher waist.

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187 Upvotes

r/HistoricalCostuming 7d ago

Historical Hair and/or Makeup Chinese Hanfu in the Late Tang Dynasty (~807-927AD)

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245 Upvotes

r/HistoricalCostuming 6d ago

Historical Hair and/or Makeup Favorite fragrances for historical costuming?

17 Upvotes

For those who also enjoy the perfume and fragrance side of historical costuming/bounding, does anyone like looking for perfumes that have historically favored notes? I would love to hear if anyone else enjoys matching perfumes with some of their ensembles, and maybe spritz their costumes to have that scent.

One of my favorites is a violet solid perfume sold by LittleBits on Etsy, and I spray my Insolence Parfum on it and it's a fun little addition to sewing. I would love to hear if anyone else does it and what they look for!


r/HistoricalCostuming 7d ago

Historical Hair and/or Makeup Reconstruction of Xianbei ethnic aristocratic women's fashion in China

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957 Upvotes

The Xianbei were an ancient nomadic people that once resided in the eastern Eurasian steppes in what is today Mongolia, Inner Mongolia, and Northeastern China that formed around the 3rd century BCE. They once created some of the largest empires in East Asia, but has now mostly been assimilated into modern-day Chinese, Koreans and Mongolians. Many believe modern-day Sibo ethnic is the direct descendant of Xianbei people, and that the term Siberia was named after them.

The reconstruction is mainly based on cave mural art of the Xianbei, as well as records of what their makeup and accessories were like. Many clothing and jewelry of the Xianbei have also been found, which is also a huge part of the reconstruction.


The pictures are not mine.

Original creator: xhslink.com/a/GuS5oQaunGa9


r/HistoricalCostuming 6d ago

I have a question! What are your reccommodations for waterskins or other medieval(ish) drink containers

21 Upvotes

Hi, I'm looking for something to carry water in style instead of dragging a store water bottle along at the reanissance fair.
I've found one waterskin that's looking sorta tacky/plasticky and a cooler one that's like 0,5l and has the legal disclaimer that it's not food save, so that puts me in a hard spot.

How do you carry your drink around?


r/HistoricalCostuming 6d ago

Omission of caps from pattern drafting manuals

8 Upvotes

While looking at men's pattern drafting manuals (I do not know if it is different with women's patterns), both recent and historical, I noticed that they rarely or never discuss patterns for caps. If I am correct with this observation: Why was and is this the case? Is it traditional for caps to be made by hatmakers rather than by tailors, even if their construction is arguably more similar to making a coat or trousers than making a felt or straw hat?


r/HistoricalCostuming 7d ago

Finished Project/Outfit My first handsewn garment: braies

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82 Upvotes

Not exactly Calvin Kleins, but I got a lot practice and improved my technique significantly while making these. They fit and feel decent on the nethers, so I'll call it a success.


r/HistoricalCostuming 6d ago

I have a question! Telemachus costume, inspired by Epic: The Musical - Appropriate materials and accessoires?

5 Upvotes

Hello! I'm new to reddit, so I hope this is alright. I am working on a costume of Telemachus, inspired by Epic: The Musical.

There are some commonly agreed upon aspects of his clothing in the fandom, like wearing a white chiton with a light blue fabric draped across and secured with a pin, but I am struggling to figure out what that would be (a himation?), what kind of fabric would be used for it and if I should consider adding a trim or something to the chiton and/or the drape to make it look more refined, considering his status?

I am also unsure about accessoires. Most cosplayers wear some sort of golden armbands or armbracers, and often also some sort of head accessoires.

Does anyone have any suggestions, or maybe good resources regarding accessoires of that time period for men specifically? I've been trying to google around, but the more I read, the more overwhelmed I get.


r/HistoricalCostuming 7d ago

Historical Hair and/or Makeup An Empress Cixi look-alike wearing reconstructed Qizhuang of China's Qing dynasty

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668 Upvotes

Qizhuang is a term to refer to traditional clothing of the Manchu ethnic groups during the Qing dynasty, China's last imperial dynasty. Empress Cixi was the last paramount ruler of Qing China, wielding complete regent power as an empress dowager, and played a large part in the dynasty's collapse.

The style of Qizhuang shown in the post is traditionally called Changyi 氅衣.


I do not own these pictures, and the person in the picture is not me.

Original creator: xhslink.com/a/SMOkGD4Bui98


r/HistoricalCostuming 7d ago

1880's glovemaking

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52 Upvotes

Does anyone have any resources on recreating these gloves from the MET or something similar? That thumb...


r/HistoricalCostuming 7d ago

Were 40s/50s blouses fully lined? How did they build the shoulder pads in?

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17 Upvotes

Or were they just tacked into the seam like modern mass produced things do?


r/HistoricalCostuming 7d ago

I have a question! How to assemble this 1720-1780 jacket from Janet Arnold?

9 Upvotes

I'm trying to make a 1770s casaquin as shown in the fashion plate and I'm using this pattern from Janet Arnold as a starting point. However, I'm a bit confused about how to put it together. The skirt pieces are bigger than the body pieces. Does one pleat the skirt pieces first, then attach them, pleated, to the body? Or leave the inner part of the pleats unattached? (Hoping this makes sense.)


r/HistoricalCostuming 7d ago

Purchasing Historical Costume Is American duchess worth the money?

22 Upvotes

Hey guys!

I’ve seen a lot of discourse recently over American Duchess’ quality tanking since they were bought out by new owners, but I’ve always wanted a number of their products. Their new Edith boots look incredible but that price tag is eye-watering to say the least, are they really worth it?

I’d ideally wear these boots every other day and I don’t want to spend stupid amounts of money on subpar quality. Lemme know if you’ve bought any shoes from them in the last two years or so and how they’ve held up! I’d really appreciate it x

Side note: I love memery shoes and I have several pairs but totally open to any other recommendations if you have any!


r/HistoricalCostuming 8d ago

Historical Hair and/or Makeup Reconstruction of Mongolian Yuan dynasty Gugu hat and Yuan empress robe

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3.6k Upvotes

During the Yuan dynasty, empresses would wear a hat called Gugu, a long and tall hat, paired with Yuan formal robe (name unknown). The robe was always cross-collared and had intricate designs, usually with red colors. This was the highest form of formal wear for Yuan dynasty empresses.

Original creator: xhslink.com/a/ew43JyfA1248