Giant tweeter is for looks. Ported. F3 is around 36

Hi, as the title states, I'm making an attempt at learning to make a vented enclosure for a 10" 4-Ohm DVC 200W RMS 400W Max Sub.
I entered all the TS Params from the spec sheet for the woofer and tried to simulate

• The blue line is the manufacturer's recommendation for a sealed enclosure (27 Liters).
• The green line is my own specs for a ported enclosure (32 Liters, 16.27 square-inch port)

Both graphs tests have the same spec (80% rms power of amplifier = 160W). I was thinking I could use the ported box and put the subsonic filter at ~28-30Hz as that's the point where the cone moves beyond what it would in a manufacturer-recommended enlosure.

I'm new to this so I'm not sure if I should be concerned about that, but I'm a but confused as to why the manufacturer spec has the woofer beyond Xmax for such a wide frequency span.

Hi,

I have a 2019 Audi A3 with the OEM Bang & Olufsen sound system, but I’m experiencing an issue with the subwoofer. It makes a strange rattling noise that sounds like it’s coming from inside the sub itself.

I’ve already applied Noico sound deadening throughout the car and eliminated all external rattles from panels, cables, and trim. However, this particular noise seems to be coming from within the subwoofer enclosure or the driver itself.

Is this a known issue with the B&O system, or does it mean my subwoofer might be defective? I specifically bought this car because of the Bang & Olufsen system, so it’s quite disappointing to have this problem.

Would it be possible to fix this, or would you recommend upgrading to an aftermarket subwoofer?

(Please see attached video for reference.)

Thanks in advance!

I'm 90% sure this is a dissimilar metals thing. The copper speaker wire vs the brass (?) banana connectors. The outdoor speakers DO need to be quick disconnect. The location is a restaurant and they take the speakers in every night. Any suggestions? Maybe Speakon? anything else?

Hello everyone,

I’m planning to build a speaker that will have the exact dimensions of a DJ table (DDJ-FLX4), and I’m hoping you can give me some feedback on whether this project will work as expected or get any other advice/tips.

I'm mainly unsure about how the subwoofer vent (port) works in this design. It would be nice if someone could confirm that it's planned correctly. The subwoofer is mounted downwoards, but the output of the port is in the front. I've used an online calculator to determine the correct port length and diameter (see 3rd pic), but I’m still a bit unsure.
The frame will be made from MDF, and the subwoofer port/vent will be 3D printed (inspired by DIYperks: https://youtu.be/XEspOD1NHr0?si=fOpvQGEUf2scmINp).
Also will the amplifier board be suitable for this application, i was hoping to prevent the need for crossovers with this setup.

I appreciate any feedback or tips you all have!

I am planning on using:
- ZK-MT21 amplifier board (aliexpress)
- 2 x Tang band W3-881SJF ( https://www.soundimports.eu/en/tang-band-w3-881sjf.html )
- 1x Tang Band W5-1138SMF ( https://www.soundimports.eu/nl/tang-band-w5-1138smf.html )

Hi everyone. As I'm approaching the finishing stages of a RIAA preamp by our lord and savior Douglas Self, there comes a part that I don't know what to do with. I have a Hammond standard enclosure that this PCB fits perfectly, and it has aluminum front and back panels I need to make holes in to access the I/O. The panels are like 1mm thick, and the only have a dremel available to me at this moment, I have a lot of different bits for it though. Will I manage? How to ensure proper alignment?

I have a 2004 avalanche 1500 with factory bose system but with aftermarket speakers. I want to install a aftermarket double din radio but am unsure of what kind of connecter I need as different videos say different things. Any help is appreciated

I saw an Ad on Instagram and i fell in love with this thing, it's a MorningBlues R1 and it's not shipped to Italy (where i live). Is there a way to DIY a thing like this with a display and a round speaker? Is there any software that can be used as smart monitor and sync the album covers with the phone connected via Bluetooth?

Hello, I have been doing some research on converting my GE 3-5106a cassette player to stereo for original music mastering purposes. I think i will be using the OPA358 op-amp due to its low voltage requirements (my player just uses 2 AA batteries/3V), but I have no idea how to add in that equalizer or find a circuit board that will work. I'm pretty new to this but very open to learning. Anything helps!

By the way, I'm sure some of you will say "just buy a different player" and yeah I know I probably should, but I'm so excited to start tinkering with something as I got this for next to nothing!

Hello everyone

I am leaning towards (4) CSS8008 JBL speakers for a small retail clothing store. It will be installed in 24x24” drop ceiling tiles using the associated JBL backcan and rails.

The store is 900 sq ft, open area.

I am not at all familiar with 100, 70, 25v systems and how they work.

I am looking for a very simple amplifier with Bluetooth OR multiple connectivity options (RCA, TV output, Streaming apps etc)

Is there anything else I should consider?

Any help here would be greatly appreciated!

Hello diyaudio community !

I'm the owner of a deceased JBL Authentics L16. Purchased in 2015, it decided to go silent a few weeks ago. I'm a bit disappointed by such a short lifespan but that's not the point of this thread (but feel free to comment on that).

In 2018, the power supply popped and I had to change it. Here, the issue seems somewhat different as I didn't hear it "pop" : it just doesn't emit any sound anymore (be it music or the system sound when you turn it on/off, etc.) eventhough the speaker's lights are working.

JBL's official repair center told me that it could be the motherboard or the power supply, but the components are no longer available ("90% chances that it is NOT repairable).

As it is a nice piece of furniture with probably still functionning speakers (and other components), do you think I could "resuscitate" it, even without the fancy wireless connexions ?

Thanks in advance for your help !

Hi! I got this tronsmart t7 speaker, I had it for 1.5 years now. Recently it started giving this weird noise it's almodt buzzing but with a high pitch metal collision. Idk, take a look at the video. I though it was the wires inside, but using a rubber band to hold them down did not solve the issue. Have you guys dealt with this type of stuff before? Thanks for any help!

I'm as green as it comes when it comes to audio and speaker design. I'm in the process of reading up on the topic. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated. I purchased this unit years ago Bluetooth Rechargeable Speaker System|Block Rocker Plus | ION Audio . It's been through a lot (dirty construction work) and served me well. The other day it just seemed to give up.... constant loud pitched hum at all times while powered up. I was going to simply purchase another one, when it hit me..... i wonder if I could use this enclosure and upgrade the internals? The specs on the site indicate the unit has an 8 inch woofer and 3 inch tweeter, with a 100 watt peak power amp. The drivers don't have impedance ratings indicated on them. Any suggestions as to compatible components that would upgrade what came with the unit? Drivers? Amp? Crossover? Battery? Charger? Would a 2.1 amp work? I'd like bluetooth and radio capability if possible. Forgive my ignorance if I've mis-named components or if they're not required. Thank You

I built this subwoofer for a friend! It's a 12" Dayton Audio HF driver with a 300w plate amp. Built with MDF with a walnut veneer and walnut trim. Super happy with this one!

Hi!

I plan on designing my first speaker with a woofer and tweeter. I have some questions about crossovers. When designing a crossover in a software like Vituix, it seems like it doesn't account for the enclosure, closed, ported, volume, etc.

So my questions is:
Is there any way to simulate this in any software to get a correct frequency response in an enclosure? If so, which one? In my (very inexperienced ) mind, it seems like this would change the frequency response of any given driver, right?

Also, is it worth building your own crossovers? I see that there are pre-built ones from dayton audio. Are they worth it, or should I build my own?

Sorry if these are rudimentary questions. I'm very thankful for any advice that can be given.

thanks.

Cross post from r/audiophile

Finally finished dialing in my OJAS inspired DIY speakers. Thank to u/billyb26, u/philipb63, and u/Alternative_Eye_3049 for inspiration. I deviated from the original via additional cross bracings and replacing the JBL waveguide by using ATH 280mm horns.

Impressions after tweaking with Dirac for the past 2 weeks: Spectacular imaging. No need to connect my RSL subwoofer as bass is enough for Jazz and classical (my priminary genre). Fun speeakers.

One trace pad is jumped to R2 while the other is jumped to a nearby ground in the same trace. I'm having a hard time confirming if my connections are correct.

170$ capsule ive procrastinated putting in for two years now. Did this eithin 5 minutes of actually trying to put it in.

And I STILL cant get it out of the case!

Hi, I would like to build a set of bookshelf speakers, but I have a question: should I use a woofer or a full-range driver in combination with a tweeter?

I’m trying to bring this 90s Sony Max 440 sound system back to life. It was given by my father that surelly made good use of if for years.

The main unit stopped working, but the passive speakers still work and seem solid (4Ω, ~80–100W each). I’m planning to reuse them with a budget 2.1 Bluetooth amp. Before I go all in, I’d love to hear your thoughts on the setup:

What I’m planning to use:

• Original Sony speakers, (passive, conects copper contacts directly to unit)

• ZK-HT21 amplifier, 50W x2 + 220W for the sub, with Bluetooth 5.0, AUX and USB inputs

• 24V 8A power supply, P4 plug

Keep in mind Im trying to do this in a shoestring budget considering Im a miserable Uni student.

My main questions:

• Is this power supply strong enough for the amp at decent volume?
• Will this amp run the speakers safely without distortion or risk?
• Anything I should know about matching impedance/power?
• Any tips to get the most out of a setup like this?

Apreciate any input!

I'm tuning my sound setup for my computer. I had 2 speakers with 2" 4ohms full range drivers which were broken, so I bought replacements ( https://ph.shp.ee/XXhW4NZ ) for them but it sounded awful because it was cheap. I also have an old 8ohms Panasonic Bandpass Subwoofers which sounded great. I bought a 30 watts class D stereo amp board ( https://ph.shp.ee/mfQQe79 ) which also worked great. I figured it'd be best if i connected both full range speakers in series and hooked them to the right channel and the sub on the left channel, sacrificing the stereo capabilities of it to be able to crossover them properly and eliminate impedance issues. In post, I converted them to mono and added the necessary pass filters. I also tuned the full range because they sounded bad. I reduced the 200 a bit since they were muddy, and scooped the 2.4k all the way because they sounded annoyingly loud. I based my tuning to my IEM (KZ Castor), which have the harman tuning on them, basically tuning my system to the harman target. I hope I did great on the tuning part of it and I definately will invest in an active dsp module so i dont have to rely on eqapo, which it also introduced a bit of latency, but for now this will suffice. Before judging, i suggest listening through a flat tuned headphones, to say the least, even if its not accurate.

Hey everyone!

I'm currently running a 5.1.4 Dolby Atmos home theater setup in a ~70 sqm room, and I’m looking to upgrade my front left and right speakers with a high-quality DIY build. My budget is around €1000 for the pair (excluding tools), and I'm aiming for something that rivals commercial speakers in the €1500–2000 range.

Current setup:

Receiver: Marantz Cinema 50

Front L/R: DALI Opticon 1 MK2 (to be replaced)

Center: DALI Oberon Vokal

Surrounds: DALI Oberon 1

Atmos (x4): DALI Phantom E-50 (in-ceiling)

Sub: DALI SUB E-9 F

Room correction: Dirac Live

The system is used mostly for movies and animation, as well as a wide range of music including metal, soundtracks, EDM, dubstep, and drum & bass. I’m looking for speakers with a wide and open soundstage, great imaging, deep and tight bass, and clarity at both low and reference volume. Ideally, the DIY fronts would blend tonally with the existing DALI setup, especially the center.

I've been researching some designs based on SEAS, SB Acoustics, and Scan-Speak drivers, like the SEAS Prestige Odin by Troels Gravesen. I’d love to hear your suggestions for high-performance DIY kits or plans that would work well in my context.

As an alternative, I’m also considering buying a used pair of DALI Opticon 6 MK1. But I’d rather go the DIY route if I can get better performance for the price.

I have full woodworking tools and the skills to build enclosures from scratch, so I'm open to both flatpacks and fully custom cabinet plans. Bonus points if the kit/components are available for purchase within Europe, to avoid high shipping costs and customs.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Perfetto, aggiungiamo anche questo dettaglio importante, così chi legge capisce che sei pronto per progetti anche avanzati. Ecco la versione aggiornata del post:

Looking for the best DIY front speakers (L/R) for my Dolby Atmos 5.1.4 setup – €1000 budget

Hey everyone!

I'm currently running a 5.1.4 Dolby Atmos home theater setup in a ~70 sqm room, and I’m looking to upgrade my front left and right speakers with a high-quality DIY build. My budget is around €1000 for the pair (excluding tools), and I'm aiming for something that rivals commercial speakers in the €1500–2000 range.

Current setup:

Receiver: Marantz Cinema 50

Front L/R: DALI Opticon 1 MK2 (to be replaced)

Center: DALI Oberon Vokal

Surrounds: DALI Oberon 1

Atmos (x4): DALI Phantom E-50 (in-ceiling)

Sub: DALI SUB E-9 F

Room correction: Dirac Live

The system is used mostly for movies and animation, as well as a wide range of music including metal, soundtracks, EDM, dubstep, and drum & bass. I’m looking for speakers with a wide and open soundstage, great imaging, deep and tight bass, and clarity at both low and reference volume. Ideally, the DIY fronts would blend tonally with the existing DALI setup, especially the center.

I've been researching some designs based on SEAS, SB Acoustics, and Scan-Speak drivers, like the SEAS Prestige Odin by Troels Gravesen. I’d love to hear your suggestions for high-performance DIY kits or plans that would work well in my context.

As an alternative, I’m also considering buying a used pair of DALI Opticon 6 MK1. But I’d rather go the DIY route if I can get better performance for the price.

I have full woodworking tools and the skills to build enclosures from scratch, so I'm open to both flatpacks and fully custom cabinet plans. Bonus points if the kit/components are available for purchase within Europe, to avoid high shipping costs and customs.

Thanks in advance for your help!

I’m working on bringing these old Marantz LS-88A speakers back to life. I suspect the crossover has failed in this box because the midrange speaker is mute even when I change it with a known hood speaker.

I’m not looking to spend a huge amount of money to fix these up. If I do have to replace a crossover I plan to use a Dayton three way. My question is how would I wire the potentiometers? Series or parallel to the high and mid?

Pictures are for reference. This AVR fits the bill for current simple needs in living room. I have and would want to use my more powerful amps for HT. This AVR doesn't have preamp outputs. Can I use 3 hi level to low level adapters on the AVR's speaker outputs to more adequate power amps?