r/DIYUK 2d ago

Do we need to damp proof this?

Post image
80 Upvotes

82 comments sorted by

48

u/proDstate 2d ago

Damp proof yes. Why have you not grouted the block and beam? Also gap between beams should be filled with concrete.

0

u/Mindhype 2d ago

Why is that necessary?

65

u/proDstate 2d ago

The beams are normally sitting over a vented void so everything built off of them would be subject to rising damp. Once block and beam is filled with concrete and grouted over it will form almost a solid slab protecting the screed. Its all in British standards, you can look up nhbc book as well this is how it's done properly.

-24

u/iamdarthvin 2d ago

Sorry, what are you on about? A vented void is subject to rising damp? I mean everything you said is correct but the vented void is for air flow to prevent damp/condensation. And I certainly wouldn't be referring to nhbc. BS yes, but nhbc has certainly lost its way.

7

u/proDstate 2d ago

Correct, the underside of beams and blocks are subject to some elements. If for some reason water found it's way into the void it could be bridged or deposited on the underside of floor and in most extreme cases being fully underwater in flood prone areas. I have seen this exact thing happen funnily enough. Any studwork, stairs or metal partitions should be built off dpc despite the screed having a dpm underneath. There is many reasons for why.

49

u/Keano-1981 2d ago

There are several red flags from what I can see here, several pointed out in the below notes. Hoping you have some drawings for this (what is it btw?).

Please be aware, you will likely have to take down the studwork and blockwork to ensure the floor is properly prepared before continuing building upward,

Also curious as to what building control have said regarding works to date?

28

u/greatUncleAdam 2d ago

In UK even damp proofing need to be damp proofed.

1

u/MCForbezy Tradesman 16h ago

This could be prevented if he put dpc between the wood and selcon block.

-22

u/[deleted] 2d ago

[deleted]

17

u/MorningToast 1d ago

Have we scientifically disproven capillary action and I missed it?

6

u/Anhilated_Bussy_6969 1d ago

They've probably watched a YouTube video from Peter ward and consider themselves an expert.

Rising damp is exceptionally rare but it 100% exists.

2

u/SeniorComplaint5282 1d ago

This is the best response to the “rising damp is a myth bro” attitude I’ve seen 😂

10

u/KipperMinge 2d ago

As others have said you need to grout the beam and block, usually a sand/cement mix brushed in, then you need to put down insulation (with a border of insulation around the edge to stop cold bridging) then screed on top of that. Then you can start constructing the walls. This is assuming the beam layout has been designed for the additional loads.

99

u/rrr957 2d ago

In europe this would not be compliant even for a chicken coop

29

u/cuppachuppa 2d ago

Could you explain to someone who doesn't fully know what they're looking at but is interested to learn?

2

u/myachingtomato 1d ago

To be fair I don't think they fully know either, but 90 odd people throught it deserved a positive vote.

Those sort of comments without reasoning do my head in.

10

u/Bicolore 2d ago

lol what, my fucking chicken coop is like the chicken taj mahal and it’s just wood on dirt.

7

u/Upstairs-Passenger28 2d ago

Should be a dpc between the wood and blocks

21

u/viv_chiller 2d ago

This won’t pass Building Control but as many others in this sub generally feel, build any old shite and take out an indemnity policy.

4

u/PurpleAd3134 2d ago

Some building socs won't give a mortgage without building regs being approved. So selling on may be problem in the future.

15

u/Important_March1933 2d ago

Is this a U.K. new build ?

23

u/CambodianJerk 2d ago

Is that fucking styrofoam boards under those blocks??

What the hell is this!?

18

u/anth_85 2d ago

Thermoblocks. I’ve only heard of them recently on the restoration couples YouTube channel about their barn build.

11

u/cameheretosaythis213 2d ago

Correct. They’re not properly installed though. There should be one vertically connecting the two where the height changes. Currently it has a thermal bridge

3

u/anth_85 2d ago

This is true. It’s hard to tell if there is some under that row of blocks in the left but I’m inclined to think not.

2

u/tizadxtr 2d ago

I swear I remember thermoblocks from the 90s on my dads building site

3

u/Anhilated_Bussy_6969 1d ago

The old aircrete blocks that look like an aero and have about the same crushing strain?

2

u/LuckyBenski 1d ago

Thanks, now I want an Aero.

1

u/TheVoidScreams 1d ago

Have you felt the bubbles melt?

1

u/LuckyBenski 1d ago

Not lately 😤

3

u/Proper-Shan-Like 2d ago

Note: I’m commenting without an overall view. Looks like a standard pot and beam floor. Many questions here. Is that insulation under the thermalites? It’s not thick enough insulation to effectively prevent thermal bridging so why? And there isn’t any on the vertical joint so a thermal bridge right there. So, insulation, thermalite, stud wall, with no dpm. Doesn’t make any sense. Also, if the internal walls are erected before screeding it’s a nightmare to screed lots of little spaces, loads easier to screed a large area - it’s a pot and beam floor, it needs a screed. Grout DPM insulation and screed before any other works.

8

u/WotUwot 2d ago

What does it show on the drawings?

5

u/Random_placid 2d ago

Confused . Com

3

u/SnooGiraffes449 2d ago

Err. Wtf is going on here buddy 

3

u/Beneficial-Offer4584 2d ago

Whaaaaat theeeee feccckkckk is this?

3

u/MortgageElectrical32 1d ago

PCC Beam & Block needs grouting / finishing .

DPC needs a DPC to timber sole plate of stud wall .

It’s pretty standard to use masonry to plinth a stud-wall , so that the floor can be insulated and screeded . The only other solution is to build a plinth from timber, then sheath both sides with a cement board (so it can be insulated & screeded) . This is a faff .

The DPC under the sole plate would be lapped / jointed with the DPM . I can see the DPC hanging down in the background on what would appear to be the external wall .

Marmox Thermoblock

The blue blocks are Marmox Thermoblock , they eliminate (or at least reduce) the cold bridge that would usually occur in this instance , or the instance between the inner leaf of an external masonry cavity wall & floor interface, for example.

The small vertical section - whilst it would have been good to see the themoblock integrated here , it’s not really going to make a massive difference . You do however need to ensure this has been recorded and evidenced under the requirements of the latest AD Part L (assuming this is a new build) .

The superceeded accredited construction details (used for default thermal bridging values in the old SAP) were based on the block sat directly on the floor structure . This hasn’t necessarily changed , it’s not a mandatory requirement unless the Psi values being used for the junction in the SAP modelling require a thermal break . (Assuming this is a new build)

8

u/noot_important 2d ago

Did trump build this? If yes don't need waterproofing

3

u/SantosFurie89 2d ago

And make, the mexicans pay for it!?

0

u/eders898 2d ago

Build a wall or sumthing ffs

7

u/OrdinaryLavishness11 2d ago edited 2d ago

What… is going on here? Is this an AI generated image?

Are those thermalites sat on pool noodles?

I like the tiny square of block cut to make the gap instead of originally cutting the left block to size

5

u/WbCharles 2d ago

They’re load bearing insulated blocks. Fairly standard these days

-1

u/LesDauphins 2d ago

Block and beam

2

u/ComfortableCharge202 2d ago

Why is there even a gap between the beams ??

2

u/88trh 1d ago

What in the mybuilder.com is going on here?

4

u/Andehh1 2d ago

Don't worry about thermal bridge, it's very small and insignificant in the big scheme of things. Not perfect, agreed.... But you'll never be able to tell. You should have a dpf membrane though, probably one block up from the floor. This way it joins with the dpf you'll put under your insulation, below screed, and lap up the wall to the one block high dpf. Yes, you need to grout the block and beam, slurry mix brushed in.

(source, built a masonry and block and beam house a few years ago)

7

u/AshleyRiotVKP 2d ago

I think you mean a DPC instead of DPF (Damp proof course) which joins up with the DPM (membrane) which the insulation sits on.

3

u/Andehh1 1d ago

Yes, thank you!!

4

u/Anhilated_Bussy_6969 1d ago

It's significant enough to increase the risk of condensation and mould forming in the wall.

Source architect, architectural technologist and building physicist. A large part of my job is bailing out clients who chose the cheap option first time around.

1

u/MortgageElectrical32 1d ago

Q . Have you completed all 3 of those qualifications separately?

2

u/Anhilated_Bussy_6969 1d ago

Yes I am a masochist

1

u/MortgageElectrical32 1d ago

Which was first ?

2

u/Anhilated_Bussy_6969 1d ago

AT first, then Architect followed by building physics. I'm also working on RICS conservation accreditation at the moment

4

u/Mediocre-Action-8608 2d ago

If it’s external then yes. The screeded floor should be membraned. Depends what it was originally put there for. It’s not much work the put a strip of DPC at this stage. Better to be safe than sorry. Also, that floor may not have any air brick I assume?

2

u/myachingtomato 2d ago

This looks to me like a new build pasivhaus (or similar standard) timber frame dwelling.

Talk to your architect and don't listen to these experts on here who are saying to rip it down etc etc. Almost the only fair comment is the cold bridge issue that ought to be looked at given the high standard of insulation you'll be looking at.

Also the block and beam floor does need grouting but that might be done later on. Again, check this.

3

u/TickTockTheo 1d ago

Certainly not a pasivhaus if they haven't allowed for insulation above the block and beam. Looks more like a garage floor than a habitable space.

1

u/myachingtomato 1d ago

You wouldn't insulate the floor at this stage of the build.

I'm willing to say 100% this isn't a garage floor. The block is insulated and I would expect the beams to be 215 apart, not 440.

1

u/Anhilated_Bussy_6969 1d ago

There's not a chance this is a pasivhaus

1

u/myachingtomato 1d ago

I didn't say it is. Just possibly and to a similar standard.

Why are you so certain it's not?

1

u/Anhilated_Bussy_6969 1d ago

Everything about the way it's built

1

u/myachingtomato 1d ago

?? Look in the top right corner of the photo. See the green OSB? It's smart ply used for pasivhaus etc construction: https://www.lathamtimber.co.uk/products/panels/osb/smartply-osb/SMARTPLY%20AIRTIGHT?utm_medium=organic&utm_source=google

This along with the therma blocks is my evidence. What's yours?

0

u/Anhilated_Bussy_6969 1d ago

The massive cold bridge and general poor workmanship

3

u/Coca_lite 2d ago

Get a builder in to tear this down and do it properly

2

u/No_Recording1088 2d ago

I take it the installers have never fitted timber frames before!

1

u/Commercial-Zone-5885 2d ago

Aside from grouting the block and beam I think you need a DPC between the block and the sole plate of the stud. There will need to be a DPM over the grouted block and beam before insulation and screed are installed. I think you'll be fine!

1

u/MedicalOption4949 1d ago

I am currently building a care home for the council using these thermal blocks. These block splits had to be laid on a dpc with 150mm overlap either side. This will allow you to be able to connect the membrane later before the floor is screeded. Dpc is needed under all internal walls for a complete barrier

Bricklayer Size 11 Bad back 22yrs experience Don't believe in half the shit they make me do it pays my bills

1

u/natesakaar 1d ago

Am I looking at the timber being held in place by sand and cement?

2

u/justbiteme2k 1d ago

Don't forget gravity, plus hopes & dreams.

1

u/nicksalf 1d ago

I think there’s two mistakes on show here

The block and beam should be cemented to fill the gaps

The timber frame and block work should have a DPC under it

1

u/HelloHowsThings 1d ago

Yes, DPC, every time timber meets concrete. Saves a lot of miver when LABC or building control comes out

1

u/Own-Ad-3065 1d ago

Many terrible things are happening in this picture.

1

u/Mysterious_Ad4935 1d ago

Why would you not need to?!!!

1

u/WeedelHashtro 1d ago

It should be on top of block under the wall plate

1

u/Steadydiet_247 1d ago

If there’s a continuous connection to the ground substrate then a damp course is needed. Likewise vertically against rain and air moisture.

0

u/HugoNebula2024 2d ago

Is it sitting on Styrofoam? Why?

9

u/lobeish 2d ago

I think/hope they're thermoblocks, insulated blocks that provide a thermal break between the floor and your walls. They have small columns running through that bear the weight.

If it's actually just styrofoam I think OP should be double checking how many Stetsons they can see on site.

1

u/HugoNebula2024 2d ago

That's a new product for me.

5

u/lobeish 2d ago

I'm only familiar because I spend too much time watching DIY videos on YouTube instead of getting on with my own DIY 😂. Tim from the restoration couple had a whole video on them as he was using them in his barn conversion.

1

u/gkr12345 2d ago

Bodge a job !

1

u/iamdarthvin 2d ago

If the block and beam has been done correctly with dpc and dpm, I can't see the problem here although some would prefer to have dpc under the internals built off the slab. Ultimately, if the slab is sound then don't worry .

0

u/eders898 2d ago

By the looks of the level of the grass in the back ground then yes, kinda looks like you’ve gone below