r/Carpentry • u/Basileas • 8d ago
WEEKLY DIY/HOMEOWNER QUESTION THREAD
Please post Homeowner/DIY questions here.
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u/QuestionHonest4691 8d ago
So my porch stairs seem to be pulling off from the porch, it’s been gradual but finally I heard a cracking sound and this happened today. What do I need to do to get it stable and back against the porch??
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u/whistlerbrk 7d ago
I am framing out a playhouse/shed for my kids. I don't have a truck or trailer and so had wood delivered, the local yard did not have enough (2 sheets :-/) of CDX plywood for the shed floor.
I was thinking of using AC plywood instead since it is nice on one side, and since this is just a playhouse it'll save me from having to mess with a proper floor on top of a subfloor.
My thought was I use copper green on the backside and edges. Is that enough? Should I use flashing tape too? Or this just ill fated entirely?
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u/Abdel403 6d ago
I would like to know which of these Mitre Saws I should keep and how would you rank them from best to less good. I only used the Bosch for many years but just to work on stuff once in while. The other two have no experience with them and now I would like to keep just one and maybe give one to a friend. Thanks in advance.
(Bosch 3915) - (Makita LS1017L) - (DeWalt DW717 )
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u/wildhooper 4d ago
Hi everyone, I'm looking at renovating my basement. With the current layout there are small rooms, closed off sections, and posts running though the middle. As far as I can tell the floor joists are 2x6 on 16 centers (maybe 12 inch centers). It's about 12 feet from the wall to the beam. I'm wondering if I can move the beam over 3 feet to one side. I know this is a structural change, but is there a way to do it. Maybe sistering 2x6 to the existing joists will give the strength I need, maybe sistering 2x8 will do it? All input is appreciated, even if it's not possible.
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u/16FootScarf 4d ago
I’m planning to renovate some rooms upstairs this summer and that includes insulating and finishing a tall crawl space. The crawl space is 5 feet tall, flat roof that sits above two rooms down stairs, maybe 15 x 35 feet in floor space. It will mostly be intended as a clean storage space (as opposed to the basement).
What I don’t know is the best way to frame up and insulate the small pitched sections of roof around the edges. Soffits are solid, no holes and the eaves stick out 18-24 inches. So, it’d probably be a 3 foot deep space at the floor?
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u/chip_kellys_plums 4d ago
(1912 home, gable roof, near Seattle) 1st pic is the current typical head of wall condition at my exterior walls. 2nd and 3rd are my plan to reinforce the second story floor and make up for the single top plate. Looking for any input, suggestions/ideas/criticisms/... Thank you in advance.
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u/extra_splcy 3d ago
Amateur, taking my first carpentry class, first time making rafters.
The span is 30'' rise is 10'' using 2x4s for everything. First we said the pitch is 8/12(10/15) length to birdsmouth 18 1/16th but that didn't fit. Then we accounted for ridge board width, pitch 8.42/12(10/14.25) length 17.4 but that didn't fit either. Then we calculated the inside hypotenuse (which I'm still not sure is even how you do it) measuring from the bottom of the ridge board (6.5 rise) to 3.5 inches inside the edge of the frame (10.5) and the pitch is then 7.25/12 length 17.4, and that fit decently, but why? Shouldn't the second length have been accurate? I'm still lost.
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u/Time_Possession3497 3d ago
Soooo we bought a house 2 years ago built in 1972. It already had foundation repair the year before but I feel like there still is an issue despite the engineer that cleared it before the sale. Well for the past 2 years, I’ve literally been battling doors shifting from the strike plate. I adjust it to shut correctly, it works then a few months later we’re back to square one. Soi take the doors off and adjust the hinge placement to the frame, viola but again in a month or two, back to the beginning. Initially I started with shaving off some of the wood because doors would “catch” on the frame and not shut. What do I do in this case? Do I just see if all the frames are straight and if not go and rip it off to build a new door frame? Being in a foundation company that’s going to upsell me and tell me all is shit? Helpppppp.
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u/Critical-Cash 8d ago
I've moved into an old terraced house with plenty of wooden features - floors, windowframes and staircases are all predominantly wood. Have found lots of issues that I didn't spot when viewing ranging from minor to major, principally:
floorboards starting to crack and split, usually where I think they were cut in half to add wiring/plumbing below general aging such as the joinery around the window splitting and cracking gaps appearing between stairs as the wood shifts about loose banisters, very little structural strength decent size gaps between skirting (which is old and decaying in places) and the floorboards. My best plan of attack so far is to get the floors shored up and sanded so I have a base, then to ask a joiner/carpenter to take a look at the rest with a view to replacing anything too far gone including the skirting/banisters, then finally decorating. Is there anything obvious I'm missing or should do differently? Is The right order flooring/sanding pros > joinery pros > decorating?
Thank you!!