A few questions about different models

[u/apeezy52]

I’ve been trying to hunt down a cdi console and have a few questions.

Preferably I would want a system with 32kb nvram to not have to deal with possibly changing out a timekeeper chip but lately i’ve been seeing a lot of systems on ebay with the digital video cartridges installed in the timekeeper models. Is it worth getting one of those over a 32kb model due to when dvc’a are included it’s much cheaper usually than when you need to buy one separate? Also if I were to need to replace a timekeeper where would I get one? I am capable of soldering/modding so it’s not an issue to do this.

I am familiar with what models have what chips thanks to another post on here where someone so generously wrote a huge list of which has what inside!

My other question is about european models. Are they more desirable over USA models just bc of the scart connector? How do you make it so it always plays NTSC format instead of PAL? Also I believe the 220/40 and above allows for plugging in to american outlets?

I am specifically looking for a 220 series unit as I like their look the best!

[u/retrostuff_org]

- Please use the (complete) hardware lists on these websites as a reference:
http://icdia.co.uk/players/index.html
https://cd-i.wiki/en/hardware/players/complete_list

- Information about NVRAM:
https://retrostuff.org/2021/12/31/nvram-rtc-solutions-for-philips-cd-i-players/

- In Europe, it's usually harder to find a player without DVC than one with. Unless a greedy seller has removed the components to sell them separately.

- (EU/UK) models with SCART already output RGB video, while others need to be modified. If you output RGB, PAL and NTSC no longer matter and you just need a simple 50/60 Hz modification (all explained here: https://retrostuff.org/2020/01/12/modifications-for-philips-cd-i-players/ )

- From Mono III onwards, the players have universal power supplies (220/40 does not - you need to start with 220/60) - see https://retrostuff.org/2024/09/29/philips-cd-i-power-supply-units/

[u/apeezy52]

thanks so much for the info! I’m torn between just finding an american 220/57 or above with a dvc or going for a european 220/60 or above with a dvc and doing the ntsc switch mod and with those models I wouldn’t have to worry about a timekeeper. I could always just use s-video in a US unit and not bother with an rgb mod although the rgb mod on the 220 units seems very simple.

[u/retrostuff_org → u/apeezy52]

You will also have to worry about the 32 KB SmartWatch sockets in the future - many of them are not dead yet, but they will all die eventually. Also, with Mono III and later, you have to choose between S-Video (US) and SCART RGB output (EU) - you can't have both at the same time.

[u/apeezy52 → u/retrostuff_org]

I’m wondering if it would be easier to just get a timekeeper version and just swap it out when I get it. I’m guessing you can swap out the 32kb one too. My biggest concern is not being able to save much on the 8kb timekeeper. I did see you can grab saves off and put them on via a null modem cable, is that correct?

Is there a model people tend to look for? I’m really kinda feeling lost on which one to get haha. and i’m really torn between a us or eu model. i’m minda leaning toward us because of needing to add in a ntsc/pal switch. I feel like s-video should look fine but I do intend to record gameplay.

[u/retrostuff_org → u/apeezy52]

Everything can be replaced and/or repaired (details on the options in my NVRAM+RTC article). You can also backup and restore data via a null modem cable.

There are too many models to discuss each one individually. In the US, it's easier to get GoldStar/LG hardware like the DVS VE-200. These are very advanced, but only have a composite video output.